COMPLEX WAVE PATTERNS AND CIRCULATION NEAR SCRIPPS SUBMARINE CANYON

Aerial photograph of complex nearshore circulation near Scripps Submarine Canyon, La Jolla, CA. There is a strong offshore flowing jet to the south (left) of the 340-m long Scripps Institution pier, as well as smaller jets, eddies, and meanders (eg, outside the surfzone (white foam) north of the pier). Recent rains resulted in a strong color contrast between muddy nearshore water and the clearer blue waters farther offshore. Close up of the circulation near the pier. The approximately 1 km long jet of muddy water (south (left) of the pier) is 10's of m wide at the offshore end. Smaller jets and eddies can be seen at the seaward edge of the surfzone (delineated by the white foam from breaking waves).


An offshore directed jet originating close to Black's Beach, onshore of the northern head of Scripps Submarine Canyon, a few km north of the Scripps Institution of Oceanography pier. Close up of the offshore flow near Black's Beach. The offshore tip of the jet has curled into a tight eddy that is being swept south (to the right) by alongshore flows.

Complex pattern of swell at Black's Beach near the northern head of the Scripps Submarine Canyon. Complex pattern of swell at Black's Beach near the northern head of the Scripps Submarine Canyon. Offshore (blue water), the swell crests were long, straight, and approximately parallel to the coastline. The two wave crests near the lower left-hand corner of the photograph are propagating at a large oblique angle relative to the shoreline, while adjacent waves approach the beach nearly parallel to the shoreline. Close up of the complex pattern of swell at Black's Beach near the northern head of the Scripps Submarine Canyon. Curving wave crests can be seen in the muddy water between the surfzone (white foam) and blue offshore water. Waves refracted by the complex canyon bathymetry can propagate at large angles to shore normal, and drive complicated surfzone circulation.


An offshore flow of muddy water on Torrey Pines Beach, a few km north of Black's Beach. The eddy at the offshore tip of the jet curves in the opposite direction as the eddy a few km south, suggesting northward alongshore flow near Torrey Pines and southward flow near Blacks. Kimball Millikan (red cap) flew the plane, Steve Elgar (white hat) took the photographs, Britt Raubenheimer (no hat) and Bob Guza (dumb hat) helped write the captions, and the Office of Naval Research provided support.