Bathymetry-induced gradients in waves
cause:
|
· Alongshore gradients in surfzone width and
setup |
· Complex
circulation
- alongshore
currents (surf and swash)
- jets,
rips |
| · Sediment
transport |
Models for mean cross- and
alongshore currents will be tested with observations acquired with in situ
current meters, shore-based video and radar, directional buoys, pressure gages,
and surface drifters. |
|