Nearshore Canyon Experiment
NCEX Home
Wave Propagation
Large-scale Video Imagery
Surfzone Circulation
Complex Nearshore Circulation
Horrizontal Currents
Vertical Structure
Rip Currents
Instabilities and Morphological Response
Imaging of Nearshore Circulation
Radar
Video
Swash Currents
Morphological Evolution
Canyon Maps and Bathymetry
Maps from SIO Library
Canyon Bathymetry pre 1990s
Canyon Bathymetry 2000-2001
Numerical Models
Directional Spectra for Model Initializations
Publically Available Models
Assimilating Data into a Circulation Model
Model Run Results
Field Observations
Array Plans for NCEX Field Experiments
Field Data
Contributing Scientists


Horizontal Currents
The alongshore gradients in waves caused by the steep canyon bathymetry result in complex surfzone circulation.
 
 
Bathymetry-induced gradients in waves cause:
· Alongshore gradients in surfzone width and setup
· Complex circulation
- alongshore currents (surf and swash)
- jets, rips
· Sediment transport

Models for mean cross- and alongshore currents will be tested with observations acquired with in situ current meters, shore-based video and radar, directional buoys, pressure gages, and surface drifters.

 

NCEX Array Plan
 
 

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